Bolting Policy

Climbing is a dangerous activity where people can and do sustain injuries including, but not limited to, broken bones, paralysis and death. The CTM Routes Committee and CTM are not responsible as a group or as individuals for the safety or well being of any person or persons engaging in rock climbing, rappelling, bouldering, route development, and retro bolting.

CTM BOLTING POLICY

  1. This policy governs the installation of new routes and the modification (“retro bolting”) of existing routes throughout Central Texas.

  1. Purpose: To promote the safe and consistent installation of all anchors and bolted protection.

TO APPLY

  1. Applicants must “claim” a new route they are about to apply for via fixed ropes, toprope anchors on slings, duct-tape on proposed bolt locations, or tape with applicant’s name at the route’s base. These claims help others identify the application and prompt other developers to work elsewhere.

  1. No applicant may claim or apply for more than two new routes at a time.

  1. CTM Routes Committee (“RC”) will consider applications on a first come first served basis.

  1. Applicants must complete the application form. (Note: if the applicant has little or no bolting experience, the applicant must provide the name of a mentor, who will provide the applicant with guidance during the actual bolting of the route. Applicants may request RC to try to provide a mentor.)

  1. Fixed Protections Requirements:

    1. Minimum bolt size: ½”.

    2. Bolt and hanger must match metals (both zinc plated or both stainless steel)

    3. Acceptable manufacturers: five piece Powers; Climb Tech; Wave glue-ins

    4. Climb Tech or Fixe Sport anchor system, or 3/8” chain.

    5. 3/8” quicklinks on anchors and any permadraws.

    6. All other proposed hardware is subject to approval by RC

APPROVAL PROCESS

  1. Members may vote to approve, reject or ask for more information on applications. Approvals may place conditions on the design and installation.

  1. Applications are approved by a simple majority of RC members.

  1. RC will strive to process applications within 30 days. After a new route application is approved by RC, it is subject to the governing jurisdiction’s review before it can be installed.

INSTALLATION DEADLINE

  1. Applicants should strive to complete work within 90 days of approval by both RC and the jurisdiction. Completion (on new routes) includes reasonable cleaning of loose rocks and dirt on and near the route that could be pulled down or kicked down by climbers. When complications arise in installation, please inform RC so that it understands your delays and offers its advice. After the 90 days, the application is considered “expired”.

  1. After expiration, the applicant can still complete the work, so long as RC does not vote to cancel the application.  (That could occur if a conflicting application is approved.)

  1. If RC receives an application by a second party for the same or similar work, RC will notify the original applicant, who then has 90 days (an “extension”) to finish installation. After this extension period, RC can cancel the original application and approve the new applicant to do the work.

SEND APPLICATION

  1. Fill out the application form and submit it by email, mail or in person to a RC member. Please see the Routes Committee page for current members.

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